Bilbao Less Than 48 Hours
Introduction
In less than 20 years, Bilbao has transformed from a nondescript industrial town into one of Spain’s most incredible destinations. Often described as “gritty” and “authentic,” this northern port is more than just a big-nosed character actor to Madrid or Barcelona’s glamorous Õlm star. Until the late 1990s, Bilbao relied on its commercial prowess over its looks. It was where Õsh came in, and iron went out. Gourmands and art lovers would arrive by ferry before disappearing to glamorous San Sebastian.
That all changed in 1997 when The Guggenheim arrived. The famous art museum, built along the once rundown riverside, didn’t just transform Bilbao but the world. Any attempt to revitalize a city with high-end architecture or art is called The Guggenheim eàect – an homage to the extraordinary revolution Frank Gehry’s building wrought on the town. Half Sydney Opera House and half spaceship, Bilbao is worth visiting for the museum alone. Its success inspired even more spending in the city: the metro stations were designed by Norman Foster, while superstar architect Santiago Calatrava created the Zubizuri Bridge. Still, Bilbao isn’t slowing down, and work has already begun on ambitious plans to redevelop the grimy Zorrotzaurre district.
Important Note: There are 19—yes, 19! Michelin-starred Restaurants in Bilbao. See all the lists here.
Flights and getting there
Most visitors arrive in Bilbao via its international airport, conveniently located 12km northeast of the city. Direct flights connect Bilbao with London (2 hours), Paris (1½ hours), Lisbon (2¼ hours), Frankfurt (2 hours) and Amsterdam (2 hours), as well as Barcelona (1¼ hours), Madrid (1 hour) and other Spanish cities. You can also arrive in Bilbao by train in different parts of Spain, including Madrid (from 5 hours) and Barcelona (around 7 hours).
Bilbao Short Stay Package
Let’s Start Our Challenge
For visitors, the city’s heart remains in the Old Town’s medieval streets. Known locally as Las Siete Calles (The Seven Streets), the narrow cobbled walkways hold the 14th-century Santiago Cathedral at their center, bordered by the covered market. Here, visitors snack on delicious pintxos (tapas on sticks) that locals say are as good as the ones in San Sebastian, no matter how many Michelin stars their neighbor gets. With stunning beaches just down the road, decent surf on the Basque coastline, and a burgeoning working-class arts scene in the barrios (neighborhoods) of San Francisco and La Vieja, Bilbao may not trump Barcelona, but it no longer has to look up to anyone.
Day 1
Morning: You would be forgiven for mistaking architect Frank Gehry’s building for a savvy structural Instagram ploy – the selfies taken outside of the Guggenheim Museum (Abandoibarra Etorbidea, 2; 00 34 944 35 90 80) in Bilbao may outnumber the entry tickets sold. Take in the special exhibits and colossal Serra sculptures and, yes, take a picture or two with Jeff Koons’ giant floral ‘Puppy’.
Cross the Puente de La Salve to see an excellent example of Bilbao’s penchant for urban art, ‘Giltza Bat’ by Verónica and Christina Werckmeister, one of many impressive street murals around the city. Then head towards the Funicular de Artxanda and hop on for a ride to the city’s top. On Saturday mornings, be sure to catch the free guided tour, which takes you behind the scenes to the mechanical room to tell the story of this 100-year-old railway car.
Afternoon: There’s nothing like fresh air atop a mountain to whet primal appetites, and Txakoli Simon (Camino San Roque, 89; 00 34 944 45 74 99) is where to dine. Sit at their communal outdoor tables and enjoy a giant Basque txuleta steak, served sizzling to the table. After lunch, explore the top of Mount Artxanda. Walk around the park, pop into a minuscule hermitage, and fall in with another piece of urban art: an enormous fingerprint by artist Juan José Novella. Back at the bottom of the mountain, explore the city on foot, looking for more impressive street art. First, head west to Olabeaga, where you can catch the artist SpY’s famous ‘Soñar’ work. Then, move towards the old part of town, where an amble along Bilbao La Vieja Street, Cortes Street, and through to Plaza Kirikiño will be rewarded by the sightings of various murals by Bada, Fermín Moreno, and Jorge Rubio.
Late: Of Bilbao’s Michelin-starred spots, Mina (Muelle Marzana; 00 34 944 79 59 38) is the spunkiest. Chef Álvaro Garrido and his self-titled ‘warriors’ serve up cheeky dishes, like a twist on everyone’s favorite spicy mussel pintxo, swapping out béchamel for lemon balm-coconut juice (it works). With a lovely location overlooking the Ribera market, it’s worth staying and splurging on the well-priced tasting menu. Finish off the night at Gin Fizz (Lersundi Kalea, 1; 00 34 946 42 14 10), where the bartenders can be found in snazzy suits, twirling their shakers and serving up magic cocktails.
Day 2
Morning: Start the morning like many locals do, at the Mercado de La Ribera (Erribera Kalea; 00 34 944 79 06 95). One of the best places to shop for food in all of Basque Country, this market still retains the authenticity it had when it opened in 1929. Gather up that shopping bag and a bit of courage and speak with the friendly stallholders, generally happy to help advise on produce purchases and preparation.
With your eyes set, it’s time for an appetite-opener for the stomach. Aperitif time, the hora del vermut, is a ritual. Across the estuary from the market, prop up on your favorite stair of the Muelle de Marzana to enjoy a prepared vermouth from the vintage favorite, Marzana 16 (Martzana Kalea, 16; 00 34 946 75 30 36).
Afternoon: Bilbao’s pintxo scene is worthy of extended study, so start your crash course at nearby El Perro Chico (Arechaga Kalea, 2; 00 34 946 40 26 65), where you can get internationally inspired small bites, from gyozas to arepas. Then head over to Gure Toki (Plaza Nueva, 12; 00 34 944 15 80 37), one of Bilbao’s obligatory pintxo stops, both for several awards won and the originality of creations. Please make your way to the affluent neighborhood of Indautxu, which is known for its nightlife and also houses one of the city’s most fascinating buildings. Azkuna Zentroa (Arriquíbar Plaza, 4; 00 34 944 01 40 14), a former wine and olive oil warehouse, has been repurposed into an all-purpose cultural center.
There’s no big building in Bilbao without a big-name architect, and the interior of the ‘Alhondiga’ (as it is popularly called) is a journey into Philippe Starck’s imagination, with splendidly trippy columns and an expansive atrium full of surprises. Check out the running exhibition, or swim in the top-floor swimming pool. The importance of football in the average Bilbao resident’s life cannot be overstated, and with good reason – the Athletic is one of the only clubs in Spain to have never dropped out of La Liga’s first division. Catch a game, in season, at the futuristic San Mamés Stadium (Rafael Moreno Pitxitxi; 00 34 944 24 08 77), recently renovated to the tune of €211 million (£186 million), and get caught up in the patriotic fervor with 53,000 other fans.
Late: Take a taxi to one of the Basque Country’s best places to eat: Azurmendi (Legina Auzoa; 00 34 944 55 83 59). Toss out the GPS you need to arrive because Chef Eneko Atxa’s explosive tasting menu is best enjoyed without a roadmap. Named #38 in The World’s 50 Best, it’s also won the award for most sustainable restaurant, thanks to its housing in a bioclimatic building powered by geothermal energy and a commitment to compost food waste to fertilize local farms, as well as research into heritage food breeds.
