The Small Cyclades
Introduction
Golden stretches of sand, crystal clear waters, and charming taverns & bars are only a few reasons why island-hopping in the Small Cyclades should be next on your vacation wish list. Yes, we are sure you’ve heard of the Cyclades – they have long been a favorite holiday destination for travelers worldwide. But what if you have witnessed the mythical Oia sunset in Santorini, enjoyed the world-famous party scene, and bar-crawled around Ios? You may be wondering if there’s anything more to the Cyclades. Before your wanderlust takes you to other unexplored territories, it’s time to let you in on the Aegean’s hush-hush treasure: The Small Cyclades. Located between Naxos and Amorgos, this island complex consists of four inhabited islands: Donoussa, Iraklia, Schinoussa, and Koufonissi. The islands remained off-the-grid until a couple of decades ago (they got electricity in 1982). Yet, they have gained severe tourist traction and buzz over the last decade. Offering much more than you could ever imagine, these microscopic stretches of land in the middle of the Southeast Aegean deserve to make it to your vacation bucket list, and here is why.
Why go?
For the island lover, this chain of small, secluded islands is paradise regained. A visit here calls to mind the Greek island experience of 20 years ago when things moved slower and pleasures were simpler. In the Small Cyclades, it’s all about switching off and reverting to island time. The magical combination of walks, swims, siestas, a good book, and generous taverna meals will make you forget what day of the week. The flash boutiques, pumping nightclubs, and selfie-stick-wielding crowds of Mykonos and Santorini are a million miles away. The islands are receiving a growing number of independent-minded travelers – regular visitors prefer limited publicity for the group lest they become overrun. There’s not much chance of that. Due to the effort in reaching them and the distinct lack of flashy development, the Small Cyclades remain an insider secret. You’ll find ‘crowds’ in the peak summer season (July and August), but in May, June, and September, you’ll rarely share the beaches with more than a dozen other beach bums. Remember that those peak-season crowds are all relative – there is simply no comparison with the thousands of visitors drawn to big-name islands. Book your ferry tickets
Koufonissi
The tiniest and most popular island of the bunch, Koufonissi, has steadily risen to tourist fame since 2000, enchanting visitors with its unique natural beauty. The island’s turquoise crystal-clear waters and golden sandy beaches directly contrast with the dramatic rocky landscape, creating the ultimate Cycladic landscape. Koufonissi features one main village, usually packed during August, with little taverns and hip bars. The island is also an excellent choice for travelers who like to hop from beach to beach during the day, as its five main beaches (Limani, Foinikas, Fanos, Italida, and Pori) are connected through seaside trails and are just a short walk away from each other.
What should be on your bucket list: Breaking dawn at Pori, the eastern part of the island, which offers a truly breathtaking sunrise. Pori is also home to Kalofeggo, one of the island’s finest bars and restaurants.
How to get there: A ferry runs from Piraeus to Koufonissi every day, and the legendary ferry boat Skopelitis connects Koufonissi with Naxos, Amorgos, and the rest of the Small Cyclades from Monday to Saturday.
Iraklia
Ironically, the most oversized island of the Small Cyclades is the quietest, most secluded, and least commercialized. Iraklia offers a calm haven to travelers who yearn for good food and long days at the beach. The island has two villages (Agios Georgios and Panagia) connected by road, and the island’s lovely and extensive trail network is perfect for adventurous hikers-at-heart. Beach life may seem limited to the charming sandy beach of Livadi (which both villages can reach on foot). In August, though, the seasonal mini bus takes travelers to Tourkopigado, a secluded pebbled beach featuring turquoise waters. Also, a caique service takes tourists on daily cruises to Iraklia’s sheltered bays and beaches, including Alimniá, the island’s most famous bay, known for its transparent waters and impressive sea floor that hosts the remains of a crashed World War II plane.
What should be on your bucket list: Joining the St. John the Baptist feast, taking place inside a cave. Every year, on August 28, flocks of people accompany the icon of the saint from Panagia to the Cyclops Cave (said to be the home of Homeric mythical hero Polifimos), where a vesperal liturgy takes place by candlelight. The same night, local musicians “take the stage” at Panagia for a night filled with traditional music, food, and (endless) dancing.
How to get there: There’s a ferry from Piraeus to Iraklia every two days. Skopelitis Express runs a ferry trip between the Small Cyclades, Naxos, and Amorgos from Monday to Saturday.
Donoussa
The lovechild of Iraklia and Koufonissi may be less cosmopolitan or wild at heart, yet it dances to the beat of its drum. With exotic beaches, dramatic scenery, and the quirkiest nightlife among the Small Cyclades, Donoussa has become the ultimate destination for hipsters and alternative travelers. Despite being the second most oversized island of the Small Cyclades complex, Donoussa’s most famous beaches (Kedros, Livadi, and Kalotaritissa) can be reached on foot. At the same time, in August, there’s a caique and bus service to them from Stavros, the island’s only village).As for the nightlife? Skantzoxiros at the port and the charming beach bar at Kedros serve up great cocktails, food, and live shows from sunrise till the break of dawn.
What should be on your bucket list: Diving off the cliff at Fokospilia. The little cave used to be a seal habitat, offering terrific deep blue waters and a stunning seabed.
How to get there: A ferry from Piraeus to Donoussa runs every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, while Skopelitis Express docks at the island’s port every Monday through Saturday.
Schinoussa
Voted as one of the six places one must visit in Greece by Forbes back in 2012, Schinoussa offers its visitors a majestic landscape along with the alluring and untouched crystal waters of the Small Cyclades. The island is known for its unique natural beauty (featuring secluded beaches, amazing views into the tremendous Aegean blue, and long stretches filled with the evergreen mastic tree shrub), the picturesque narrow alleys of its villages (Chora, Mersini, and Messaria), and the kindness of its locals that makes visitors feel like they’re home. The coastline of Schinoussa offers 18 beaches and many sheltered and private bays to swim in, while, at night, the little taverns around Chora light up and await to introduce visitors to the island’s lovely nightlife. During the summer, travelers will also find many yachts in Schinoussa’s main marina, usually belonging to the island’s shipping tycoons or world-famous celebrities who came here seeking quiet refuge.
What should be on your bucket list: Showing up for the Donkey Race in August. Until 1980, donkeys were the only means of transportation around Schinoussa, so the locals celebrate their great contribution to the island’s daily life by holding this race. And if you’re not a big fan of Fast and Furious Donkey, putting your fork into a fava, the island’s awarded local specialty, should be at the top of your list.
How to get there: There’s a ferry from Piraeus to Schinoussa every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, while Skopelitis Express docks at the island’s port every Monday to Saturday.
Sleeping and eating
Each island has a good array of domatia (rooms) for rent – these are in demand in July and August but offer excellent low prices in the quieter months (almost all are closed from around October to April). There are simple old-school lodgings that speak of an earlier island-hopping era, plus some enticing boutique guesthouses – e.g. Makares on Donousa, Speires Hotel on Iraklia, Mersini Taverna on Schinousa, and Anna Villas on Koufonisia. Eating options are best in Koufonisia, though the gourmet offerings of Deli Restaurant & Cafe-Bar on Schinousa deserve special mention. One of the most accessible places to while away an afternoon is Donousa’s quayside Kafeneio To Kyma, an old-school, all-purpose store/cafe where locals and visitors gather over ouzo, beer, and backgammon.
Beaches and trails
The waters lapping the Small Cyclades are a knockout – for our money, Koufonisia has the best swim spots, but every island has rocky coves and sandy crescents that fringe crystal-clear water. Some are perfectly placed right in the main settlement (for example, on Donousa and Koufonisia), while others require a hike or a boat transfer. In July and August, a local captain on each island offers boat transfers to idyllic beaches for a small charge and may offer a cruise around the island to take in the sights. Walking is vital to all Small Cyclades – roads are minimal, car rental is non-existent, and there are no taxis. Accommodation owners will meet you at the port to transfer you and your luggage. Otherwise, scooters can be hired in Iraklia, bicycle rental is popular in Koufonisia, and a minibus usually runs along the main island road in Donousa during the summer. But it’s the walking trails that woo, and often, their destinations are exquisite coves and stunning vistas of an island-dappled Aegean.
On Koufonisia, an easy 2km walk along the flat, sandy coast road east of the port leads to a chain of beaches, then becomes a walking path passing several rocky swimming places. The highlight is discovering the glorious rockpool nicknamed Piscina (Italian for ‘swimming pool’), and the path’s final destination is a gem: the exquisite sandy bay at Pori (which can also be reached by an inland road and is a good cycling destination). In the other direction, a walk west from Koufonisia’s port takes you to Loutro; you’ve hit the photogenic jackpot here, with a stony cove, small boatyard, windmill, and whitewashed church. Above Loutro is a cluster of accommodation blocks and restaurants, including Capetan Nikolas, which serves fabulous seafood.
On Donousa, the sandy and secluded beach of Kendros lies 1.25km southeast of Stavros (the main settlement, where the ferry docks); it’s reached by a stepped track. Livadi, an hour’s hike further east, sees even fewer visitors. Inland still paths and tracks lead into the hills to timeless little hamlets. Iraklia’s most exciting walking destination is the Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis – an initial scramble through the entrance leads to a cave full of stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is about a two-hour walk (one way) from the port area on a signed path.
